I remember the time I bathed in the Triveni as a kid. This is the holy confluence or sangam of Ganga, Jamuna and the mythical Saraswati flowing from under and meeting those two real-life rivers near the town of Prayag later aptly named Allahabad, City of God, by Islamic conquerors. A bath here would merit us Hindus entry into heaven and the ritual was timely as my mother would pass away soon after. It is here that in 2001 in the Maha Kumbh Mela 60 million devotees thronged to take a dip making this the largest gathering of humanity in the history of the world! Triveni I am reminded of the sangam whenever I come across another awesome river during the course of my travel. The Brahmaputra is one such. Flowing from its source at Mount Kailash in Tibet, the river traverses pristine across the breadth of the Tibetan plateau north of Nepal. I have crossed it to reach Samye Monastery, one of the venerated Buddhist pilgr...

T he National Geographic Magazine has always been my favorite print medium for gaining insight into vanishing cultures, insular societies and natural phenomena that blow your mind. A combination of precise writing and award-winning photography brought these wonderful worlds to our living room before cable TV took over. I was curious when we got a call from Lisa Choegyal informing us that a correspondent from Natgeo wanted to interview my father. The year was 1982 and I had returned to Nepal from Europe with my recently-married wife just a year earlier. What was the subject of the interview I enquired? True to Natgeo form they wanted to interview father on one of the rarely performed sacred Hindu religious rituals. The One-horned Indian Rhinoceros is one of the few mammals surviving today that has the look of a prehistoric creature a million years old. Chitwan or Chitta-bana , the heart of the jungle, located in the Nepal Terai ...

Maharajah Juddha Shumsher J. B. Rana with his Crown As a kid I used to gape in wonderment at the magnificent crown my father possessed not knowing that the jewels were only for show. The dark green, emerald drops were made of glass, the sparkling diamonds were probably zirconium, and the pearls were not of the best sort. Every Rana general had his personal crown in those days, and my father was no exception. I did not recognize the difference between this personal crown of father's and the other more valuable crown of the Nepalese Commander-in-Chief of the Army that my father was seen wearing in many a portrait displayed about the house. Little did I know that my father was the last person to put on his head the army chief's crown from the Rana era, real glittering diamonds, snow white pearls and thumb-sized emerald drops and all. The feather in the crown was the magnificent plumes of the Bird of Paradise that gave it such a majestic look. The Bird of ...

It is only but natural that the Nepalese people are looking for a strong leader at a time of current vacuous leadership. Our present times must have had similarities in our history particularly after the demise of Prime Minister Bhimsen Thapa and before the rise of Prime Minister Jung Bahadur Rana. The present scenario of our bickering troika of political parties jostling for ascendancy reminds me of the highly destabilized period following the eclipse of the powerful Bhimsen. The troika of a toothless King Rajendra, an ambitious Queen Rajya Laxmi and an irresponsible Crown Prince Surendra had pushed Nepal to the brink after they started to pull the reigns of powers themselves. The cacophony of noise emanating from the palace had bewildered the masses just as the discordant sound bites emanating from our political leaders have imperiled the future of our nation today. We see no purpose. Etching of Maharajah Jung Bahadur Jung Bahadur Rana took control of...

L ittle did the Nepalese conscripts in the Gurkha regiments of British India know that they would fight and die in foreign shores as far away as the Turkish peninsula of Gallipoli during World War I. The Treaty of Sugauly had ended the short Anglo-Nepal Wars in 1816 A.D. and the British had wrested the right to conscript the hardy mountain soldiers of Nepal into the newly formed Gurkha Regiments of British India. World War I saw the British, French and Russian Empires pitted against the German, Austro-Hungarian and the Ottoman Empires. With Russia cut off from the west and Imperial Russia on the brink of collapse having suffered defeat in its western front, the western allies wanted to secure the link from the Mediterranean Sea to the Black Sea to supply Russia but the Turks at Istanbul were blocking the Bosphorus. British and French troops attacked Gallipoli to occupy Istanbul. The 1st Battalion of the 6th Gurkha Rifles ...