Skip to main content

TABLE MANNERS

The former Bahadur Bhawan, the palatial residence of General Bahadur Shumsher J. B. Rana, was renamed the Royal Hotel. Even earlier it was known as the Char Burja named for the four towers on each corner of the rectangular building, an unlikely Mughal-era appendage on an otherwise neo-classical building. Boris Lissanovich had been invited by King Tribhuvan to come to Nepal from his Club 300 nightclub in Calcutta to open a modern hotel to complement the opening of Nepal. Motley groups of anthropologists, journalists, development gurus, adventurers and Christian missionaries had started pouring into the once forbidden kingdom, a veritable Shangri-La. Hotel rooms with sound plumbing and reasonable western cuisine were expected by all these visitors.

My first memories of this magnificent place goes back to the early sixties. The gardens were meticulously tended to. The restaurant tables looked impeccable in white starch and glittering silverware. The odour was omelet and ketchup, our favorite snack when I accompanied Nicholas my classmate, the youngest son of Boris, from school. Next door was the International Club with its own Ping Pong tables, Billiard room and a swimming pool. After a long playtime with Nicholas I would return home in the evening.

One particular story demonstrates how Nepal came of age with the opening of this hotel. After the advent of democracy in 1951 the first high level delegation from a foreign country was soon visiting Nepal. Rooms at the Royal Hotel were made ready, china was imported, Boris trained his Nepali helpers to serve and wait. The state was giving a fabulous banquet to the visiting delegation.

My father General Kiran Shumsher J. B. Rana was the Commander-in-chief of the Nepalese Army and a trusted confidant of King Tribhuvan. A ruling cabinet was in place comprising many political activists who had spent years of their lives in jails or in exile but were now suddenly thrust into the limelight. Would they know the western manners and mores of dining at the elegant Royal Hotel? The first state banquet of the new Nepal could not become a comedy of errors. But who was to bell the cat?

General Kiran in one of his informal audiences broached this subject with the king. The king was in deep thought, yes he knew that many of his cabinet ministers would not know how to sit western-style at the table and dine with forks and knives. Surely this was a protocol worth looking into. The chief opined that a rehearsal would have to take place with Boris preparing the elaborate state menu beforehand not to chance anything. The king nodded but where was the budget going to come from? After every upheaval the state is left bankrupt by the predecessors and Nepal was no exception. Reading the king's mind General Kiran offered," Your Majesty, I will bear the expense of this mock-up dinner."

Thus invitations were sent out to all members of the cabinet, Boris prepared a full state banquet and the first Nepalese cabinet had a lesson in table manners!

Comments

Popular posts from this blog

RANI MAHAL, THE STORY OF ITS MAKER

PROLOGUE Rani Mahal Palpa The first time I ever saw this historical edifice thirty five years ago, she was in ruins and looked like an old hag during the winter of her life, simply waiting for her eventual demise. I was then on my way further west on a week-long trek from Tansen to Tamghas in Gulmi District. Thirty five years later, I found myself at the same spot once again, this time out there on purpose. I had seen pictures of the building with a coat of new paint before and I wanted to see how much change had been made by the Nepal Government’s Department of Archeology.  Yes, the outer façade still looked brand new with fresh paints, which to me personally was a bit too gaudy. But when I walked through the inside of the building and saw nothing but empty rooms without even a single piece of furniture, my enthusiasm took a nose dive . And when I entered one room where there was a fireplace with the floor in front of the hearth still looking as black as charcoal, I ...

THE FIRST SON

T he child was just 2 years old when his father Prime Minister Jung Bahadur Rana received an invitation from the East India Company to visit England in 1850 A.D. Her Majesty Queen Victoria would be receiving him at court! The household was in a frenzy preparing for this arduous journey. Palpable excitement was in the air. The delegation had to be finalized, supplies and rations to be ordered, modes of transportation to be chartered, decorations and gifts to be sorted out to offer to the gracious hosts, et all. No ruler from the sub-continent had been invited by the Company until this instance. Too, dire premonition was weighing heavily on the newly blessed "Rana" family despite the auspicious date of travel charted by court astrologers and birth-chart diviners. Would the young thirty-four year prime minister and de facto ruler return safely after crossing the black waters? "What would happen to the young child if he didn't?" lamented his pregnant mother Nanda Ku...

SILENT TRIBUTE

A s a kid it was always difficult for me to ascertain whether they were heroes or villains, some minor players in a Shakespearean tragedy or the main act itself. But one thing is for sure which is that I was always uncomfortable whenever this topic came up. Even before school I knew about those four as Nimbu Didi would tell me in hushed tones how they were executed. She lived near Shova Bhagabati so she was present thereabouts when Ganga Lal was shot. She would dramatically rip at her bosoms and say that Ganga Lal yelled while tearing his shirt apart baring his chest, "Shoot, shoot your own father, shoot" before the bullets made his body go limp. There is an apocryphal story circulating that one top Rana general himself snatched the rifle from the hands of a wavering soldier and shot Ganga Lal. Ganga Lal Shrestha Coming from a line of Rana rulers of Nepal I, like many fellow Ranas of my generation in similar position, carry...