Recently Bagh Durbar located near the erstwhile Bhimsen Tower 'Dharahara' at the heart of Kathmandu city was in the news as the Municipality had more or less decided to demolish a historical building adversely affected by the earthquake of 2015 instead of renovating and retrofitting it. Many have raised their voices against such a historical place being leveled to give rise to yet another shopping mall without the valley's soul. It would be another example of a potpourri of architectural styles prevalent in the unimpressive designs adorning Kathmandu's march to modernity. Mrs. Chanda Rana is one of the advocates of preservation of this historic building and kudos to her.
Historic Bagh Durbar built by Prime Minister Bhimsen Thapa |
What is the genesis of this historic building? What cries and whispers pervaded its corridors when the powerful were residing there? What were the historical epoch its bricks and mortars witnessed that would shape the destiny of the movers and shakers of the nation? Will all this be lost forever in the drive to demolish it and for the politicians and contractors to reap a rich reward in commissions and bribes?
Bhimsen Thapa Chapter: Bhimsen Thapa, Prime Minister of Nepal, 1806-1837 A.D.
Prime Minister Bhimsen Thapa |
General Mathabar Singh Thapa Chapter: Prime Minister of Nepal, 1843 - 1845 A.D., nephew of Bhimsen Thapa
Prime Minister Mathabar Singh Thapa |
Mahila Shebjiu (Duke) Upendra Bikram Shah Chapter: younger brother of King Surendra Bikram Shah, renowned Tantric master, father of Prince Dhirendra
However in 1854 A.D. Prime Minister Jung Bahadur Rana renovated it and made it the official residence of Prince Upendra Bikram Shah, the younger brother of King Surendra Bikram Shah, after the former was implicated in a plot to unseat both Surendra and Jung Bahadur. No doubt Jung thought it prudent for Upendra to live away from the Hanuman Dhoka Royal Palace under virtual house-arrest so that he did not create more mischief.
After Prime Minister Jung Bahadur Rana's passing Nepalese politics soon went into overdrive with the contending power centers of Jung's sons and his younger brothers vying one against the other in consolidating state power. This is where once again Bagh Durbar comes into prominence in deciding who would win the game of thrones. This is when the three sisters, daughters of Jung Bahadur Rana, play their petticoat politics in ironically bringing down the house of Maharajah Jung Bahadur Rana itself. Nepalese historians have given them the names "Utpat", "Bitpat" and "Mahapat" denoting ascending grades of disaster for their role in political conspiracies of the time.
Mahila Shebjiu (Duke) Upendra Bikram Shah |
Maharajah Jung Bahadur's other daughters namely "Chirbiray Maiya" Khadga Kumari, daughter from the Basnet wife Maharani Siddhi Gajendra Luxmi and "Kanchi Maiya" Deep Rajya Luxmi, younger daughter from Maharani Hiranya Garva Kumari were given in marriage to Prince Dhirendra Bikram Shah, the son of Mahila Sahebjiu Upendra and started living in Bagh Durbar. Bir, eldest son of Jung's youngest brother Dhir Shumsher, was adopted by Jung and his Putali Maharani and hence Jung married him to the daughter of Sahebjiu Upendra, Princess Munindra Dibeshwori, elder sister of Dhirendra. Bir too started residing at Bagh because he simply had nowhere to go. This is where the plot thickens. Daughters of Maharani Hiranya Garva Kumari were dead set against state power going into the hands of their half-brother General Jagat Jung. They would rather have the sons of Dhir Shumsher take power in a coup d'etat and banish their half-brothers.
Prince Dhirendra Bikram Shah |
King Surendra Bikram Shah died on 17th May 1881 A.D. and the crown went to his grandson the infant Prithvi Bir Bikram and his mother Lalita Rajeshwori was declared the Queen Regent of Nepal. Lalita "Utpat", Khadga "Bitpat" and Deep "Mahapat" would soon swing into action.
On that fateful November night of 1885 A.D. Prime Minister Ranauddip Singh was assassinated at his Narayanhiti Palace and at the first light of the new day General Bir Shumsher had been sworn in as Maharajah of Kaski and Lamjung and Prime Minister of Nepal by the baby King Prithvi Bir Bikram carried on the arms of his mother Regent Queen Mother Lalita Rajya Luxmi Devi amidst an investiture ceremony held at Tundikhel Parade Ground.
Chirbiray Maiya, Khadga Kumari, first wife of Dhirendra Bikram |
Baghki Kanchi Maiya, Deep Kumari, second wife of Prince Dhirendra Bikram |
Epilogue
Would it not be a wonderful idea to have Bagh Durbar in its olden majesty made into a museum dedicated to the lives and times of General Bhimsen Thapa and Mahila Sahebjiu the tantric Upendra Bikram Shah? Last summer I visited Hampton Court Palace near London, the residence of King Henry VIII. Why don't we turn Bagh Durbar into our own Hampton Court?
Would it not be a wonderful idea to have Bagh Durbar in its olden majesty made into a museum dedicated to the lives and times of General Bhimsen Thapa and Mahila Sahebjiu the tantric Upendra Bikram Shah? Last summer I visited Hampton Court Palace near London, the residence of King Henry VIII. Why don't we turn Bagh Durbar into our own Hampton Court?
Absolutely brilliant idea to make Bagh Durbar a museum depicting the life and times of Prime Minister Bhimsen Thapa! No point just renovating the durbar.
ReplyDeleteWith renovation and retrofitting the Bagh Durbar would make a wonderful museum.
ReplyDeleteHistory is always fascinating. There are so many crossroads that can change the fate of people and the country. History of Nepal is replete with conspiracies , intrigues and violence to match Games of Thrones any day!
ReplyDeleteA dizzying array of historical Nepali names who played a part in the Bagh Durbar saga. Only Subodh could give all these names a riveting and often entertaining context for posterity. And certainly Bagh Durbar needs to be renovated for posterity and not replaced with a shopping mall built by Pappu,the notorious contractor or the Nepali army!! Akash Bhairab
ReplyDeleteNice to read columns of our Ancestors Upendra Bir Bikram Shah and Bagdurbar
ReplyDeleteAppreciate your writing with nice rare photographs
Thank you very much!
Working in the Central Prison, Sundhara for a year, I was utterly fascinated by Bagh Durbar especially after having read a historical fiction which captivated my interest on the same. It is sadly amusing that the Government takes more interest in tearing down buildings of such historical significance only to build stupid shopping malls. It is even worse to know that we are surrounded by such imbeciles who have no say on such ineptitude. This information helped me rekindle my memories of the then ramshackle durbar that had once managed to recreate the imagery of 'Bagdurbar' that was illustrated so vividly in my mind. Your interest in history can be reflected by the immense knowledge you display in your writing. Thank you once again.
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